Saffron was introduced to Cornwall by Spanish traders, who exchanged it for tin. Over many years it became ubiquitous across the county – so much so that for the Cornish, saffron is more a home comfort than an exotic wonder. Powerfully aromatic and beautifully coloured, it’s one of Michael’s favourite spices, and Cornish saffron cake is a bake that never fails to remind him of home.
This old-fashioned yeasted cake was almost a permanent feature at Michael’s grandparents’ home, kept on hand for unexpected visitors. It keeps well and is lovely toasted with some butter, the aromas enveloping you like a hug as it warms. It’s also not too sweet, making it ideal for morning or afternoon tea.
Handling the yeasted dough can feel a bit more like bread making than cake making, in that it’s rested repeatedly and is shaped before being transferred into the tin. If these techniques are unfamiliar, try viewing this recipe as a learning opportunity. Perhaps it will be the start of a whole new baking journey!
Makes two 25 × 10 cm (10 × 4 in) loaf cakes
WHAT YOU NEED
350g (12½ oz) full-cream (whole) milk
1g (⅓2 oz) saffron threads
25g (1 oz) fresh yeast or 12 g (½ oz) instant dried yeast
450g (1 lb) bakers (strong) flour
60g (2 oz) soft brown sugar
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
120g (4½ oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 1 cm (½ in) dice
100g (3½ oz) currants
50g (1¾ oz) mixed peel
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
WHAT TO DO
Combine the milk and saffron in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Slowly bring it up to a simmer, being careful not to let it boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.
Mix the yeast with 50g (1¾ oz) of the saffron-infused milk and 50g (1¾ oz) of the flour in a small bowl and leave it to activate for 15–20 minutes.
In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the remaining milk with the remaining flour and the sugar and salt. Mix on medium speed for 2–3 minutes, until well combined. Add the activated yeast mixture and mix for 8–10 minutes on medium speed, scraping down the side of the bowl with a dough scraper or spatula halfway through.
When the dough is well formed, add the butter in two or three additions, continuing to mix on medium speed. Once the butter is fully incorporated, add the dried fruit and spices and mix well until they’re evenly distributed through the dough. Turn the dough out onto your benchtop and knead it with your hands to bring everything together.
Lightly oil the sides of a large bowl and place the dough inside. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rest in a warm place (ideally around 22–24˚C/72–75˚F) to prove for 30 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto your benchtop again and knead it for 30 seconds or so, to knock it back and ensure the dried fruit is well distributed. Return it to the bowl and cover for another 30 minutes.
Grease and line two 25 × 10 cm (10 × 4 in) loaf tins.
Tip the dough onto your benchtop and cut it into two even pieces. Shape each piece into a rectangle with a short edge that matches the length of your loaf tins. Place the short edge closest to you and roll the dough into a log, starting at the top of the rectangle and rolling towards you. To do this, fold over a small piece at the top and press it down a little, then roll that over again and press it down gently. Continue rolling like this until you get to the end, and use the heel of your hand to seal any gaps.
Put each log into one of your prepared tins, with the seam side down. Leave covered in a warm place to prove for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (360˚F).
Depending on the weather and how hot your kitchen is, the dough may need another 30 minutes or so to prove. It should be visibly well risen to around double in size. Gently press a finger into the dough – if it leaves a little indentation, it’s ready to bake; if it springs back quickly, it needs a little more time.
Place a small tin with 25g (1 oz) of hot water at the bottom of your oven. This will create steam, which will help the dough to fully develop during the bake. Place the tins in the oven and bake for 12 minutes before turning them around, then bake for another 10 minutes. To check the bake, carefully turn one loaf out of its tin and tap the bottom. If it sounds hollow, it’s done. If not, gently slide it back into the tin and return to the oven for a few more minutes.
Once baked, the cakes will be a lovely deep golden-brown colour over the top. Cool them in the tin for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
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