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Global Trends: International Flavours

Global Trends: International Flavours

With the food world arriving in Australia throughout October for the Crave Sydney International Food Festival, Australian Baking Business takes a look at global trends influencing the industry.

THE MANY FACES OF CHOCOLATE

Chocolatier Willie Harcourt-Cooze gave masterclasses in Sydney as part of the Crave Sydney International Food Festival in October.

Sydney’s Baroque Bistro & Patisserie brought Mr Harcourt-Cooze out to Australia to share his knowledge during the festival. He gave masterclasses held in conjunction with Baroque’s award-winning pastry chef, Jean-Michel Raynaud and two ‘Golden Ticket’ chocolate degustation dinners.

During his masterclasses, Mr Harcourt-Cooze tried to dispel common misconceptions about chocolate and reveal its many faces and flavours to attendees

“It’s interesting trying to educate people a bit about the beans and our process, about the flavours of cacaos, about the many faces of savoury and sweet, of different possibilities from working at 100 per cent (cacao),” Mr Harcourt-Cooze told Australian Baking Business

He explained how using too much sugar could mask flavours, discussed various chocolate origins and showed how to be creative with cacao and bread.

“It’s really not about the highest percentage cacao chocolate being better, it’s about a balance of flavour between the bean and the sugar,” he revealed.

A great way to highlight the flavours of cacao is by mixing it with bread served with avocado, quail’s egg and chilli oil.

“It’s a great way to very simply show the merits of flavours of cacao and of course the chilli lifts it,” he said.

“If you’re into cooking it’s a very exciting ingredient. It has multiple possibilities, from savoury to sweet.”

Mr Harcourt-Cooze said Sydney was a “fantastic” city to visit and he enjoyed working alongside Mr Raynaud to create the custom Willie’s Wonky Chocolate Macaron.

“I’ve been to some great restauraunts, (tried)great food and the food fair was fantastic. And using my cacao in such a fantastic macaron was just brilliant,” he said.

Mr Harcourt-Cooze is the only small cacao grower and producer in the UK. He was the subject of a documentary, Willie’s Wonky Chocolate Factory, in 2008, which was followed by a second series, Willie’s Chocolate Revolution: Raising the Bar. His first book Willie’s Chocolate Factory Cookbook was published in 2009 and was followed up in 2010 by Willie’s Chocolate Bible.

Mr Harcourt-Cooze’s passion for chocolate was born of a love of adventure. His ongoing food journey started at a young age, when he spent his childhood making cheese, smoking fish, milling flour, growing vegetables and pickling fruit.

Travelling across the world, it was while he was on holiday in Venezuela in 1993 that he fell in love with a remote coastal area near Choroni. Buying Hacienda El Tesoro in 1996, Mr Harcourt-Cooze was introduced to the cacao tree and quickly discovered his passion for chocolate and began experimenting.

He started producing his first single-origin 100 per cent cylinders in his Devon factory in 2007 before starting his single-origin chocolate bars.

His chocolate products are on sale at Baroque Bistro and La Renaissance Patisserie in The Rocks throughout October, along with Willie’s Wonky Chocolate Macaron.

FRENCH MASTER PUTS ON A SHOW

Visiting French Pastry School chef, Sébastien Canonne, M.O.F. enthralled a lucky selection of William Angliss Institute teachers, students and industry contacts in September.

The Chicago-based teacher showed why he has been called the ‘King of Pastry’ as he gave the special industry presentation on contemporary techniques using fruit in desserts.

The acclaimed pastry chef went to great depth explaining each ingredient and the subsequent chemical reactions that occur in his recipes. He related this knowledge back to how it was possible to get longer shelf-life and a more consistent product. The audience was treated to samples of his Berry Fruit Marshmallow, Lemon and Basil Sorbet, Litchi and Mint Ice-Cream, Banana Mango Butter Caramel Chocolates and other delights.

Institute patisserie industry advisory board guests, students and staff who attended were very enthusiastic about the demonstration and felt that seeing a presenter of Mr Canonne’s calibre was a great inspiration.

Award-winning French executive pastry chef, Pierrick Boyer, who works at RACV Club’s Le Petit Gateaux and is a member of the William Angliss Institute patisserie industry advisory board, had the dual role of master of ceremonies and Mr Canonne’s ‘stirrer’. Together they turned the demonstration into an entertaining experience for those attending.

William Angliss Institute’s patisserie department was able to invite Mr Canonne to Australia thanks to a grant from the TAFE Development Centre Industry Skills Scheme. Patisserie senior educator, Angela Tsimiklis hosted Mr Canonne during his visit, which included intimate training sessions for staff as part of the institute’s commitment to ongoing learning and staff development. The master classes saw Mr Canonne guiding patisserie trainers in the specialist art of sugar work and sugar showpieces.

“As the specialist centre for foods, tourism and hospitality, we decided that inviting Mr Sébastien, an undisputed leader in his field, to share his techniques with our staff was a great way to further our specialist standing and hone our sugar skills,” Ms Tsimiklis said.

“Our staff already win awards for their creativity and excellence in patisserie, but this visit has equipped them with extra skills in the specialist area of sugar which will be a real point of difference for what they can share with our students.”

Mr Canonne’s stay also saw him conduct a sugar forum with the institute’s patisserie industry advisory board, who meet regularly to ensure the institute’s students are trained in current practices and meeting industry needs and skill requirements.

TURKISH BAKED DELIGHTS

Acclaimed Sydney Turkish restaurant, Efendy is holding a week-long celebration of Turkish baked cuisine in October.

Efendy owner, Somer Sivrioglu recently returned from a month-long culinary journey of Turkey and has teamed up with a number of chefs and foodie personalities to create a week of authentically Turkish events from 25-29 October. The events include a Turkish Bakery Delights Feast with Deniz Gokturk, a six-course feast bringing together Efendy’s authentic Turkish fare with decadent breads and pastries from Ms Gokturk’s cookbook Turkish Bakery Delight.

Mr Sivrioglu brings a rich Turkish heritage and a wealth of knowledge to the table. Some of his traditional baked Turkish products on offer include baklava, keskul and gozleme. Mr Sivrioglu uses a filo pastry for his baklava, which he hand rolls more than 40 times before baking in his large stone oven.

“The Turkish baklava is very different from any other baklava becuase the only things you use is pistachio with the filo pastry. We don’t use honey or anything like that in it,” Mr Sivrioglu explained to Australian Baking Business

There is also the keskul, a tradiitonal pudding dating back to the Ottomon era.

“They used to make it in the palace kitchen and give it to the public on the street any time there was a specific celebration,” Mr Sivrioglu said.

“It’s very easy to make and it’s quite delicious. There’s no flour in it; it’s only made with almondmeal, pistachio, sugar and rice flour.”

Gozleme has become very popular in Australia and uses a specific pastry called yuskea, available from Middle East and Turkish shops.

“It’s very easy to make. You just roll whatever you like in it and cook it on a pan with a bit of olive oil or butter, whichever you prefer.”

Spending the first 25 years of his life in Turkey where his mother was a successful restaurant consultant, Mr Sivrioglu grew up around the vibrancy of urban Turkish cuisine. It is these early culinary experiences combined with his many years in the restaurant and hospitality industr, that gave him the inspiration for Efendy.

Staying true to the authenticity of his vision, Mr Sivrioglu travels back to Istanbul, Turkey, regularly to ensure Efendy reflects the latest trends and stays true to contemporary Turkish cuisine. Additionally, the Efendy kitchen team is entirely Turkish, with each member representing a different culinary region. The Efendy experience is complete with genuine Turkish hospitality. Mr Sivrioglu’s wife Asli and brother-in-law, Fatih Kulle, manage the Efendy floor team, and all the staff display the warmth typical of the Turkish culture.

Somer’s Recipe

Spinach and feta gozleme

serves two

Ingredients

Dough
1 cup flour
A little bit less than
½ cup spring water, room temperature
½ tsp salt

Filling
150 g chopped spinach
1 small onion, chopped1 tablespoon olive oil
¼ cup feta cheese, crumbled
1 pinch crushed pepper
Salt and pepper

Glaze
1 tablespoon butter, melted

Method
1 Place the flour and salt in a bowl. Slowly add water while you kneading. Put the dough on the lightly floured counter and knead well for about 10 minutes until it becomes smooth. Cover the dough with a damp paper towel and let it stand for 15 minutes.
2 Cut the dough in four equal pieces with a knife. Roll out each piece about 25cm in diameter with a roller. Spread the filling ingredients equally in the middle of the dough. First fold the opposite sides to cover the filling. Then fold the third side and lastly the fourth side to cover up the filling.
3 Heat up the Teflon pan just under medium heat. Cook one side of the gozleme until there are some “brown eyes” on it. Then turn it over and brush this side with butter. Also brush the other side after cooking.
4 Serve gozleme while it is still warm. You can also make gozleme with beef, spinach, potato or eggplant filling.

BAKING EXPERTS SHARE FRENCH FLOUR SECRETS

Two masters of bread and pastry came together in early September to swap baking techniques and discuss the qualities of French flour.

Uncle Bob’s Bakery owner and Southern Cross Baking Group president, Brett Noy worked in Adriano Zumbo’s Rozelle business for two days in preparation for Fine Food Australia. The two bakers discussed different aspects of Mr Zumbo’s sourdough production as well as the qualities of the GMP French flour recently introduced into Australia.

While Mr Zumbo is best known for his macarons, cakes and pastries, he also has a range of traditional sourdough breads baked in-house. Mr Noy said he was impressed by his pastry counterpart’s insight into sourdough bread as well as his general food knowledge. While many of the industry’s best bakers are known for their passion, Mr Noy credited the pastry chef’s food science knowledge for helping to set him apart from the pack.

“He’s learning all the time. He’s got a really good interest in bread because he takes interest in the science of the production of everything,” Mr Noy said.

“That’s what makes him so good at the pastry that he does. He doesn’t just throw things together. The reason that he can make them work is that he understands the science behind it.”

While bread was the focus of attention of the two day production run, Mr Zumbo’s famous macarons were also discussed.

“You taste his macarons, and I’ve tried macarons all over the world, and his are equal with the best in the world and better than most,” Mr Noy said.

“It’s because he understand how they work. He understands not only the methodology of making them but he understands how to put it together. You can only do that when you are coming from a science-based approach.”

Mr Zumbo has a controlled and measured approach when using sugar, refraining from constantly adding it to his products.

“If he’s using fruits and adding them to chocolate, there’s already existing sugar in a different form in the fruit,” Mr Noy revealed.

“He said a lot of people try and add more sugar to it and you lose the flavour because you over-sweetened it. So it’s really important to have that understanding.”

At the end of the two days the bakers produced hundreds of rustic baguettes loaves for Fine Food Australia.

Despite his booming pastries and various media commitments taking up much of his time, Mr Zumbo will make use of the experience to help him expand the bread side of his business.

ASIAN INNOVATION

Breadtop offers a premium-quality, baked-on-premises retail concept.

No stone is left unturned as Breadtop’s head chefs travel the world every year to attend international exhibitions, visit bakeries and factories and seek inspiration and innovation. The bakery chain’s creative head pastry chefs and bakers constantly brainstorm new product lines and cakes for special festivals and events.

The innovative bakery chain offers self-service products to suit Asian as well as Australian tastes. They continually invite and hire experts to study and improve their product storage system.

The ‘self-service bun purchasing’ concept gives customers freedom to browse before making a purchase. Breadtop’s experience, passion and devotion always brings them more innovation and the finest product for every festival. To date, Breadtop is proud to offer 80 bread and pastry lines and more than 70 individual cake styles.

“Our product lines are continually being refined to ensure that every style and product has strong customer appeal,” Breadtop head baker, Tak Wong said.

“You can enjoy sweet buns, pastries, savoury rolls, loaves and doughnuts as well as many varieties of cakes,” he said.

Breadtop first opened its doors in Melbourne in 2002, with its very first store in Box Hill. The first franchise store was subsequently established in 2004, with the first Sydney store opened in 2005 at World Square. That was the beginning of a string of successful franchise outlets that now includes 20 stores in Victoria, two stores in ACT, 17 stores in New South Wales, 13 stores in Queensland and two in South Australia.

With such a rapid expansion their management team strive to ensure that quality is not compromised and are exposed to the latest cutting-edge technology in automation and hygiene for their product lines.

EUROPEAN BREADS

Inspired by his European adventures, Brasserie Bread’s Michael Klausen has introduced Italian and Germanic bread to his product range.

Ciabatta bread has left a distinct memory on Mr Klausen. Having eaten the bread while travelling through Italy, he loved how it combined the textures of large air holes and a thin elegant crust that seemed perfect for dipping into sauce or fresh virgin olive oil. Having recently introduced the classic bread to his Sydney business, he discovered how hard it is to re-create the bread in Australia.

“We knew what we wanted – smell, texture, crust and look. A loaf that is very light and has a porous chewy interior with a slightly crunchy crust veiled with flour and deep prominent lines like an old tree,” Mr Klausen said.

Brasserie Bread’s ciabatta is made with organic flour and a poolish that has been fermented for 24 hours, The wet and sticky dough is unique, with around 80 per cent or higher hydration. It requires some special handling from their baker, has no final shaping and is left unscored before being placed in the oven.

The bakery has also introduced a German wholegrain bread. It aims to have a loaf with lots of grains and isn’t too dry and hard. The whole wheat and barley are boiled and mixed it into the dough the next day. There is also a Harvest Grain Loaf – a healthy organic sourdough packed with nutritious whole grains, wheat, barley, rye and kibbled wheat, barley, polenta, rolled oats, millet and linseed.


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